Still action-oriented for me! So seems like either A/B testing or the big hero is gone (or trapped in cookie limbo).

That's not what I'm experiencing. When logged out I still see the more action-oriented view.

If it is about Airbnb deciding that they have enough brand recognition that they can prioritize user action over a marketing pitch, I'd love to know when and how that decision gets made. It's an interesting inflection point for a brand to move towards "the quiet confidence of Google's homepage," which of course is a reflection of Google's powerful brand recognition.